BELLOWS FALLS — It's Vermont's first crop of the year. Once you spy steam escaping from your neighbor's sugarhouse, you know spring is truly on its way, and in Windham County, that time is upon us.
That first stack of pancakes drizzled with gold is a reward hard won at the end of a cold winter, and we all have our favorites.
The golden, light-colored syrup harvested at the beginning of sugaring has the most delicate flavor, and this progress of color and maple intensity increases through the weeks. The darker syrups from the end of the season have the deepest maple flavor.
Vermont sugar makers simplified the grading of maple syrup a few years ago, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture has adopted this system. Syrup is now all designated “Grade A,” with color and flavor variations now simply listed as “golden,” “amber,” “dark,” and “very dark.”
It is all about what you like best, and how you are using it.
For instance, when baking, use the darker syrups, as the heat from the baking process dims the natural flavor. If you are using a delicate herb in the syrup for a glaze, use something lighter.
New England cooks have long infused maple syrup with berries for a sweet topping, with no special recipe required; just simmer about 1 cup of syrup with about 1 cup of berries for about 10 minutes. You can strain it or leave the berries whole.
That is just the beginning of the story. Maple syrup is easy to infuse with countless other flavors, both sweet and savory.
The technique is simple. Warm the syrup with whatever it is you want its flavors to marry. Heat to a simmer for 5 minutes, and set it aside until cool. Strain if desired. Most are stable in the refrigerator for months.
A natural companion to the hardiness of maple is cinnamon. This sassy spice works well with many of the traditional breakfast staples, from waffles to coffee cakes. Split a vanilla bean, and add a cinnamon stick to infuse a cup of amber maple syrup. Now you've got a complex flavor bomb to adorn all those creations.
Herbs work beautifully, as do spices such as star anise, nutmeg, and cloves. Spirits can add a great dimension to the syrup as well, and some combinations are a natural: rum with cinnamon is a great pairing, as are bourbon with cherry, or Sambuca for fennel or anise. One of my favorites is dill and lemon.
In remarkably little time, you can have your own one-of-a-kind designer syrup to use and give to others. Create your blend using what your family likes the best. Experiment! It is not rocket science; just taste as you go until you get the taste you want. The longer it sets, the more pronounced the flavor.
With many combinations, a little heat makes it all better. A fresh jalapeño, a little cayenne, or a dried chili added while the mixture is simmering will give a little snap to a host of sweet and savory flavors.
Salmon glazed with Sambuca maple syrup
Back in the day, cooks would glaze salmon with a little dark amber maple syrup, and that was pretty much it. The sweet with the savory was a good match. As time wore on, adventurous cooks added some mustard to a glaze to modernize it.
Today, toppings - everything from nuts to horseradish - abound for this staple fish, so it was a simple sidestep to create a special infused maple syrup to liven things up even more. (I realize that my great-grandchildren will probably scoff at this progression, question why we did all this fussing around back in the teens, and will just brush the salmon with simple maple syrup and call it a day.)
This recipe uses a Sambuca-and-fennel-infused maple syrup (recipe below) in a simple three-ingredient glaze, which includes a little soy sauce and flavorful miso. Use the concoction to marinate, baste, and sauce the fish for enhanced flavor.
You can substitute the French Pernod or the Greek ouzo for the Sambuca. Use the clear or “white” Sambuca, or the even-more-intensely-flavored dark, my preference.
Serve this on a bed of simple sautéed leeks and fennel bulbs, and add some colorful buttered carrots to plate to round things out if you like.
Wild salmon is always best. I don't like the texture of any salmon that's been frozen, so I look for fresh, organic, farmed salmon, or fresh, farmed salmon from the Faroe Islands at this time of year. This Scottish salmon has tons of flavor and is raised in carefully controlled conditions that ensure healthy fish, farmed in cold waters, with a quick trip to the States.
¶{1/4} cup Sambuca-infused maple syrup (see recipe)
¶2 Tbsp. red miso paste
¶2 Tbsp. soy sauce
¶4 salmon filets, around 5 ounces each
¶Salt and pepper to taste
¶Olive oil
Lightly salt and pepper the salmon.
Whisk the infused maple syrup, miso paste, and soy sauce. Pour half into a shallow bowl and add the salmon filets to marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Meanwhile, heat your oven to 450 degrees and place your baking pan or cast-iron frying pan on the middle rack to heat it up as well. This starts the cooking of your fish immediately and evenly once it is placed on the hot pan.
When the oven is hot, add 1 tablespoon or so of olive oil to the pan to cover the bottom. Place the salmon in the pan, skin side down, with room between each filet.
Cook for 5 minutes, then brush with more glaze, reserving some for a sauce at the end. Put back in the oven for another 3 to 4 minutes.
Overcooking any fish results in a dry dish, so err on the side of undercooking a little, because the fish will continue cooking after you take it out of the oven.
Slip a sharp paring knife into the middle and peek a minute or so before you think it will be done, judging by how it felt at the earlier glazing. You will want the salmon to be a little opaque in the middle and cooked to medium.
This dish is delicious served with rice or placed atop a bed of sautéed fennel and leeks. Drizzle the filets with a little more of the glaze.
Sautéed leeks and fennel
Remove the core and tough stems, and thinly slice:
¶1 large or 2 small bulbs of fennel
Save the fronds for garnish.
Thinly slice:
¶1 large leek or 2 small
In a pinch, substitute a large sweet onion.
Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium high, and add the leek and fennel to:
¶1 Tbsp. olive oil
Sauté until the vegetables are soft and tender, and only just starting to brown on the odd edge.
Season with:
¶salt and pepper to taste
If you have them on hand, throw in a little:
¶minced parsley or fennel fronds.
Sambuca and Fennel Maple Syrup
¶1 cup dark maple syrup
¶{1/4} cup Sambuca
¶1 tsp. crushed fennel seeds
Place the ingredients in a small saucepan over medium-low and bring to a simmer, just below boiling. Reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the burner and let sit until cool. Strain. Cover and keep in the refrigerator for months.
Mocha maple syrup
For an adult ice cream topping, make a batch of mocha maple syrup. Simmer:
¶1 cup of darkest maple syrup
¶2 tsp. instant espresso powder
¶4 tsp. unsweetened cocoa
If you like, add:
¶{1/8} tsp. cayenne pepper
Whisk well, and heat for just a minute or two. Rest until cool. I've no idea how long this one lasts refrigerated since it is consumed quickly.
Cinnamon-nutmeg maple syrup
To top or enhance anything apple, infuse:
¶1 cup golden maple syrup
¶1 stick cinnamon
¶nutmeg, a few grates
¶{1/4} cup calvados (French apple brandy)
Heat to a simmer, then let cool.
Ginger-lemon maple syrup
Infuse:
¶1 cup golden maple syrup
with
¶a few slices of fresh lemon
¶1-inch knob of ginger, sliced lengthwise in half
As with the other recipes, heat, rest, enjoy.